Walk along Southall Broadway and you almost feel as if you are in a colder, cloudier version of India or Pakistan - everything reminds you of South Asia, from the delicious aroma of traditional treats to the sound of bhangra music mixed with the buzz of haggling shoppers and the multitude of small businesses selling everything from sarees to crockery. It is represented mostly by the Punjabi community and reflects the religious diversity of London with ten gurdwaras, ten churches, five mosques and two mandirs. The first South Asians arrived in Southall, in the London borough of Ealing, in 1950 to work in a local factory and the population of the diaspora grew, as people found employment opportunities nearby. The area has seen some tough times as well, particularly in the late 20th century, due to race riots. Today, Southall is a reflection of the subcontinent’s culture and is a popular place for shopping, eating and connecting with others.
I was lucky enough to speak to resident Neeli Awan, who had come to the Broadway in order to purchase some clothes and jewellery for an upcoming wedding of a family member. She stated that it was “wonderful” having so many stores nearby which cater to the South Asian population as it makes “preparing for a special occasion so easy”. While admiring a set of purple and gold bangles, she told me about how the area becomes particularly busy during holidays like Diwali, as well as on independence days, as people gather to celebrate, often eating at one of the several famous restaurants and getting henna patterns done. “I especially enjoy Chaand Raat in Southall,” she said, referring to the night before the Islamic festival Eid. “Muslims of South Asian heritage come from all over London to enjoy the evening and it gets super lively.” She went on to call it one of the "highlights" of each year.
“I’ve lived around here for most of my life,” she told me, as the conversation moved on to the area as a whole. “My parents, brother, childhood friends, everyone is just a few doors away which is lovely. There’s a really strong sense of community here - we all look out for and know each other. Southall is quite a Punjabi area, though now people from other ethnic minorities are coming here, so it’s very diverse.” Mrs Awan is one among the many for whom the town is incredibly significant. It is a hub for brown culture and a reflection of, as well as a home to, the UK’s South Asian diaspora.
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