In a nod to its previous incarnation as a curry house, the first thing that arrives to your table at Harvest are mini poppadoms with a yoghurt dip.
Thereafter, dinner is pretty modern and British; plenty of veg, greenery and flavour yoked to carefully sourced UK fish and farm produce.
The baby sister to Parlour further up Chamberlayne Road, Harvest is an all day family-friendly affair close to Kensal Rise's popular schools.
Chef Jesse Dunford Wood, who also runs Six Portland Road in Holland Park, is a master of the informal, inventive dining that appeals to the West London crowd; cocktails, creativity and boho chic.
You pass under a striped awning shielding several street tables and it's amazing how the old Bawarchis has been transformed with stained glass, ironwork art, and green leather seating for around 40. Wander down the rear corridor and you'll find the loos, an open kitchen and an inviting terrace with space for 30.
The welcome is warm and knowledgable, cocktails are swiftly rustled up; a nicely balanced Paper Plane with bourbon, bitters and lemon juice for him, something with gin and lime for me.
Food starts from breakfast; granola, porridge, muffins, eggs, pastries and a full English if you want. Lunch is salads, soup, and sandwiches with plenty of options for kids; half portions of the pork schnitzel, fish cakes, or spaghetti bolognaise.
Many items reappear on the dinner menu; a cream of onion soup with apple and mustard melba toast, or quiche of chestnut mushrooms, onions and watercress. Parlour's 'back door smoked salmon' makes an appearance, cured with muscovado and smoked over applewood the thick tranches go wonderfully with whipped butter and their dark soda bread sweetened with black treacle.
Veg is celebrated here, a warm crispy egg - like a scotch egg without the sausage - oozed yolk over scarcely-cooked asparagus with a mild Berkswell sheep's cheese for a fresh, yet comforting dish that's English to its core. Duck liver profiteroles involved stuffing smooth pate into choux pastry with sweet-sour blood orange and a crunchy dusting of pistachio, delivering mouthfuls of texture and flavour.
Mains to share include a brined, roasted chicken and whole roast sea bass with 'lots of lovely green things'.
Our 10oz short horn sirloin with truffle butter was perfectly cooked well-sourced meat. Crispy 'tater tots' (a cross between rosti and roast potatoes) and a simple salad came too. Taking apart a whole mackerel while trying to avoiding the bones, revealed beautifully fresh flaky flesh, even if the sorrel and apple ketchup didn't quite punch through.
Parlour is famous for its creative way with nostalgic puddings and here the kids menu includes a whiff of school dinners in 'chocolate concrete with pink custard' that is probably like nothing served at my primary. We loved the crisp, buttery French toast with cream cheese and strawberries, and salted caramel 'rolos'.
Dunford Wood has created a neighbourhood all-dayer to meet friends, take the kids, or just hop on a bar stool for a great cocktail. Like all good restaurants, you will leave happier than you arrived.
Harvest is at 68, Chamberlayne Road, NW10.
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