Joe Curtis and Victoria Grove had walked past the Princess Alexandra in Crouch End many times over the years, admiring its garden space and extensive interior.
They dreamt of how they could transform the Park Road pub if it ever became available. Victoria grew up in Crouch End, and Joe, who hails from Kentish Town, has lived there for a decade.
Earlier this year their dreams came true and The Good Reader is reborn as a gastro pub, with a warm and comfortable interior courtesy of Victoria, and a superb menu, which is Joe’s forte.
The couple were ready for a new challenge. They had previously run the bar and cafe at Jackson’s Lane, and Joe had been chef at many pubs over the years as well as doing event catering.
“I had wanted to do my own thing and this has given me the opportunity. I really enjoy presenting things my way and seeing people enjoy it," he says.
The name change is inspired by Sir Henry Reader Williams, the progressive philanthropist commemorated on Crouch End's clock tower, and today the interior is unrecognisable from its former dark and dingy look.
Walls have been knocked out, skylights exposed to let light in, bookcases filled, and walls covered with pictures from the couple’s family homes.
This is now Crouch End’s home from home and Joe says that locals and north Londoners are discovering a new hostelry to meet their style and taste.
The menu meets anyone’s expectation of great cooking - in Joe’s words, it's not poncy but satisfies the taste buds and the palate. We ordered glasses of red and white wine, both above average for a pub.
We started with warm bread and extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar mixed for dipping. The pièce de résistance of the starters is the moules marinière. Joe sources his fish from a Cornish supplier and as with the meat, says it's important to build a relationship with a single supplier - both people he has known for years.
The moules were supremely fresh and plump, also recommended is the burrata, with tomatoes, homemade pesto and nuts which had a bright taste. A warm cabbage starter had an earthiness that was perfect for the autumn.
Our main courses were sea bass on top of a bed of vegetables - a well-cooked chunky piece of fish with a generous herby sauce. The stewed short rib of beef was soft and delicious, and served on a bed of risotto, with parmesan chips scattered over the rice.
A vegetarian dish, of mushrooms on top of a smooth polenta mixed with spinach was filling and rustic.
For greedy eaters like us, the desert was superlative. The chocolate orange tart was beautifully executed - the not-too-sweet ganache perfectly balanced by crème fraiche. While the sticky toffee pudding, was not too heavy and had a lighter sponge than you often find.
Joe and Victoria have a core belief in the quality of ingredients from small producers, and the Good Reader’s prices reflect this.
The Sunday lunch has already become something of a Crouch End tradition which I look forward to enjoying.
All in all, this revamped pub is a welcome addition to Crouch End’s busy restaurant scene - a home from home with considered cooking and character.
The Good Reader, 120 Park Road, London N8.
Enquiries@thegoodreader.co.uk
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